How-to
How should approach shoes fit?
Published
Note: This page contains affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Learn more
In short
Approach shoes should fit snugly at the heel and midfoot with toes lying flat, just short of or lightly near the front when laced for scrambling. They should not be tight like climbing shoes. Most people take their usual walking shoe size; size slightly closer for technical scrambling and slightly roomier for long walk-ins. Wide feet need a model with a roomier last.
Products for this job
Compare all 5 productsLa Sportiva TX4 Evo GTX: suede, for rock and wet slabs
Check price on AmazonAffiliate linkScarpa Mescalito: lacing to the toe, Vibram Dynamis LB
Check price on AmazonAffiliate linkScarpa Crux: Vibram Megagrip, 358 g listed
Check price on AmazonAffiliate link
Approach shoes sit between walking shoes and climbing shoes, and that makes sizing confusing. Too loose and you lose the precision on rock that you bought them for. Too tight and the walk-in becomes painful. The answer depends on how you use them. This guide explains the fit to aim for, how lacing to the toe helps you switch between walking and scrambling, how brands differ and what to do if you have wide feet.
The fit to aim for
With the shoe laced, your heel should sit firmly in the heel cup with little lift when you walk uphill. The midfoot should be held evenly. Toes should lie flat, not curled, with a small gap at the front or a light touch when you stand on your toes. You should be able to wiggle your toes.
That is snugger than a hiking shoe, which leaves a thumb's width for long descents, but far looser than a climbing shoe, which curls the toes.
| Shoe type | Toe position | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Walking shoe | Thumb's width of space | Long paths and descents |
| Approach shoe | Flat, small gap or light touch | Walk-ins, scrambles, easy rock |
| Climbing shoe | Curled or pressed to the front | Climbing routes only |
Should approach shoes be tight?
Snug, not tight. A shoe that squeezes your toes or presses on the sides becomes painful over a few hours of walking, and pain makes you less steady on rock. The precision of an approach shoe comes from the sole, the toe shape and the lacing, not from crushing the foot.
If you plan mostly technical scrambling with short walk-ins, a closer fit can help. If you plan long walk-ins and descents, a slightly roomier fit is kinder to your toes.
Using lacing to the toe
Most approach shoes have laces that run close to the toe. That lets you tune the fit for each part of the day. For the walk, keep the forefoot lacing relaxed and the ankle snug. For a scramble, pull the forefoot lacing tighter so the shoe wraps your toes and you can stand precisely on small edges.
A surgeon's knot halfway up the laces lets you hold different tensions in the two zones.
- 1
Loosen the laces fully and put the shoe on.
- 2
Tension the toe lacing for the job: firmer for scrambling, relaxed for walking.
- 3
Tie a surgeon's knot at the midfoot.
- 4
Snug the upper lacing to hold the heel back and tie off.
Sizing between brands
Brands and models differ in length, width and toe shape. La Sportiva, Scarpa, Salewa and Five Ten all make approach shoes on different lasts, and even within one brand a narrow, precise model and a comfort model can fit very differently. Check each maker's size chart and try them on if possible.
Our walking boot size chart and the boot size converter help with UK, EU and US conversions.
Approach shoes for wide feet
Approach shoes are often built on fairly close-fitting lasts for precision, so wide feet can be a challenge. Look for models described as having a roomier fit or a comfort last, and use the lacing to the toe to open up the forefoot. Avoid simply going up a size, which leaves the heel loose and the toe too long for edging.
Our guide to the best approach shoes for scrambling notes which models have more forefoot room, and our best walking boots for wide feet covers wide-fit boots if an approach shoe will not work.
Breaking them in
Suede and leather approach shoes soften and mould a little with use; synthetic ones change less. Wear them on a few short walks before a big day. If a pressure point does not settle, the shoe is probably the wrong shape for your foot.
For more on choosing between types, see approach shoes vs hiking shoes and what are approach shoes.
Note:Scrambling carries a risk of falls. Footwear helps, but experience, conditions and route choice matter more. Consider instruction before graded scrambles.
Frequently asked questions
Should I size up or down in approach shoes? Most people take their usual walking shoe size. Size slightly closer for technical use and slightly roomier for long walks.
Are approach shoes supposed to be uncomfortable? No. They should be snug but comfortable enough to walk in for hours.
Do La Sportiva approach shoes run small? Fit varies by model. Check La Sportiva's size guide for the specific shoe and try them on if you can.
Can I wear thick socks with approach shoes? Thin to medium socks suit most approach shoes. Thick socks reduce precision and can make them tight.
What you need
- Check price on AmazonAffiliate link
La Sportiva TX4 Evo GTX: suede, for rock and wet slabs
- Check price on AmazonAffiliate link
Hanwag Tatra II GTX (2E width): nubuck, leather lined
- Check price on AmazonAffiliate link
Scarpa Cyrus 2 GTX: nubuck, Scarpa Presa sole