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How should approach shoes fit?

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Approach shoes sit between walking shoes and climbing shoes, and that makes sizing confusing. Too loose and you lose the precision on rock that you bought them for. Too tight and the walk-in becomes painful. The answer depends on how you use them. This guide explains the fit to aim for, how lacing to the toe helps you switch between walking and scrambling, how brands differ and what to do if you have wide feet.

The fit to aim for

With the shoe laced, your heel should sit firmly in the heel cup with little lift when you walk uphill. The midfoot should be held evenly. Toes should lie flat, not curled, with a small gap at the front or a light touch when you stand on your toes. You should be able to wiggle your toes.

That is snugger than a hiking shoe, which leaves a thumb's width for long descents, but far looser than a climbing shoe, which curls the toes.

Should approach shoes be tight?

Snug, not tight. A shoe that squeezes your toes or presses on the sides becomes painful over a few hours of walking, and pain makes you less steady on rock. The precision of an approach shoe comes from the sole, the toe shape and the lacing, not from crushing the foot.

If you plan mostly technical scrambling with short walk-ins, a closer fit can help. If you plan long walk-ins and descents, a slightly roomier fit is kinder to your toes.

Using lacing to the toe

Most approach shoes have laces that run close to the toe. That lets you tune the fit for each part of the day. For the walk, keep the forefoot lacing relaxed and the ankle snug. For a scramble, pull the forefoot lacing tighter so the shoe wraps your toes and you can stand precisely on small edges.

A surgeon's knot halfway up the laces lets you hold different tensions in the two zones.

  1. 1

    Loosen the laces fully and put the shoe on.

  2. 2

    Tension the toe lacing for the job: firmer for scrambling, relaxed for walking.

  3. 3

    Tie a surgeon's knot at the midfoot.

  4. 4

    Snug the upper lacing to hold the heel back and tie off.

Sizing between brands

Brands and models differ in length, width and toe shape. La Sportiva, Scarpa, Salewa and Five Ten all make approach shoes on different lasts, and even within one brand a narrow, precise model and a comfort model can fit very differently. Check each maker's size chart and try them on if possible.

Our walking boot size chart and the boot size converter help with UK, EU and US conversions.

Approach shoes for wide feet

Approach shoes are often built on fairly close-fitting lasts for precision, so wide feet can be a challenge. Look for models described as having a roomier fit or a comfort last, and use the lacing to the toe to open up the forefoot. Avoid simply going up a size, which leaves the heel loose and the toe too long for edging.

Our guide to the best approach shoes for scrambling notes which models have more forefoot room, and our best walking boots for wide feet covers wide-fit boots if an approach shoe will not work.

Compare approach shoes for scrambling →

Breaking them in

Suede and leather approach shoes soften and mould a little with use; synthetic ones change less. Wear them on a few short walks before a big day. If a pressure point does not settle, the shoe is probably the wrong shape for your foot.

For more on choosing between types, see approach shoes vs hiking shoes and what are approach shoes.

Note:Scrambling carries a risk of falls. Footwear helps, but experience, conditions and route choice matter more. Consider instruction before graded scrambles.

Frequently asked questions

Should I size up or down in approach shoes? Most people take their usual walking shoe size. Size slightly closer for technical use and slightly roomier for long walks.

Are approach shoes supposed to be uncomfortable? No. They should be snug but comfortable enough to walk in for hours.

Do La Sportiva approach shoes run small? Fit varies by model. Check La Sportiva's size guide for the specific shoe and try them on if you can.

Can I wear thick socks with approach shoes? Thin to medium socks suit most approach shoes. Thick socks reduce precision and can make them tight.

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